Gemstones are set into jewellery using different techniques which influence the overall feel and aesthetic to a piece. We use to main setting types in our practice. The two main settings we use in our practice are a claw setting and cast-in-place. Within these settings there are a wide range of variations that give a different feel to each piece.
A claw setting is where a gemstone is set in the piece after it has been carved from wax and cast into precious metals. We can set most varieties of precious and semi-precious gemstones with this setting. There are a range of claw set styles within our practice, from large bold claws to small delicate settings. The amount of claws can range any where between two and 8. How you would like your piece claw set is entirely up to you.
Below, an emerald cut Parti sapphire in a 4 claw setting and a trilliant cut white diamond in a three claw setting.
Below, drop earrings with fresh water pearls in 4 claw settings and an oval cut orange sapphire in a 4 claw setting.
Pictured here, a hexagonal cut salt and pepper diamond with a 6 claw setting and a unique cut champagne diamond in a 3 claw setting.
Below, our Ethereal diamond ring which has a delicate four claw setting and a bespoke raw green sapphire ring with a four claw setting.
cast in place
cast in place is a process whereby the gemstones are set into the wax and then cast in precoius metals. This can give the effect of the gemstones being embedded or buried within the gold. As this process exposes the gemstones to high temperatures, the only stones that are hard enough to withstand this process are rubies, sapphires and diamonds. There are many styles and shapes within this setting practice.
Below, is a collection of pieces whose gemstones are embedded into the band. Here a central round cut white diamond flanked by two green sapphires and two wedding bands with three embedded green sapphires.
Below, a raw blue sapphire embedded in a sculptural organic band and an emerald cut green sapphire in a bespoke hand crafted band exhibiting vine-like shapes.
Pictured is a pear cut black sapphire and an oval cut green sapphire embedded in textured yellow gold bands.
Within this setting style we can create pieces which are sculpted around the gemstone to frame and highlight the it’s shape.
Below, a trillion cut salt and pepper diamond in an 9ct yellow gold band. To the right, a pear cut deep green sapphire paired with a round cut light green sapphire in a textured band.
A bespoke piece exhibiting five round cut salt and pepper diamonds. To the right, a oval cut sapphire embedded in a rectangular face paired with a round cut white diamond.
below, our Lilius ring in 9ct yellow gold with our Amari ring in blue sapphire & 9ct yellow gold.
get in touch
If you would like to create a bespoke piece and are unsure which setting style you would like, please get in touch – email@example.com. We are more than happy to discuss any questions you might have. If you know setting style you would like to explore, let us know and we would love to hear your ideas and can provide you with further reference images.